THE
PANTANAL EXPEDITION RIDE
With Two Days on a 19th Century Colonial Estate and One Day on
a "Mangalarga Marchador" Stud Farm
June 4-June 15, 2005
(12 days, 11 nights)
Limited to 8 Riders
An exclusive riding trip that combines three very diverse areas of Brazil.
WHAT A CLIENT HAD TO SAY ABOUT A PREVIOUS TRIP:
Brazil – the Pantanal Expedition
Ride
A Client’s Assessment
“Adventures on Horseback” does not fully describe the amazing experiences we have had riding with Christine Chauvin. Her rides are, in fact, Excursions into the Culture of the Horse. They are special, unique glimpses of the history, lives and architecture of people who revere and cherish their horses. The rides feature charming accommodations, a blend of exquisite & rough. The horses and tack are always at a high standard; and when the horses are the Marwari of Rajasthan or the Mangalarga Machador of Brazil, a special thrill. In the evenings, there is always laughter and good conversation, as Christine has a fine touch in putting together simpatico riders.
Our ride in the Pantanal and at coastal Fazendas of Brazil began after a two-hour flight from S.P. to Campo Grande. We were met by Lilike, our pilot and a cousin of Sophia (the outfitter), who does everything from fixing eyeglasses to fishing for piranhas, to blending the best caipirinhas. Lilike flew us to Fazenda Santa Sophia, tucked into the Pantanal which is a most amazing network of savannahs, swamps and rivers, teeming with birds, wildlife and cattle. As we landed, we saw Marcelo (Sophia’s husband) smiling at us from his jeep painted in the colors of a Jaguar.
We were shown to immaculate new rooms that were just completed. A change of clothes, a delicious lunch, and we were off on our quarter horses, for a tour of the sandy plains and dense tree islands that form the Pantanal. On return at dusk, we were treated to the raucous squawking of the Macaws as they flew to their roosts. The birds, vibrant in the royal blue or brilliant red colors, tail feathers streaming, fly as pairs in close formation, turning and wheeling together. As evening settled, we sipped Lilike’s perfect blend, and listened to the sounds of the night.
It is 6:30 AM. The scene is a tile veranda, two hammocks of bright colors, lounge chairs, ashtrays molded from a jaguar’s paw print, incessant chirping. Strong bitter coffee in tiny cups… a haze over the savannah framing the trees at dawn, white cattle calling as they browse. Breakfast is ready: Fresh orange juice, papaya halves, a mound of rice with dried beef blended in, fresh hot bread with dark honey, a local white pressed cheese.We received morning greetings from Bea Rondon (Sophia’s mother), already in riding kit complete with knife and pearl handled revolver. She needs all her considerable energy to manage the men and cattle on her 35,000 hectares.
Our day’s ride took us to Bea’s fishing camp on the Rio Negro River where we climbed into banana boats and motored down river amidst the most bountiful and diverse population of birds I have ever seen. The shores were lined with caiman basking in the sun and the occasional capybara, the largest rodent in the world. Huge swamp stags could be seen, Dorado was there for the skilled angler, and a couple of giant river otters stared curiously at us. This is Bea’s private stretch of paradise. We were all so thankful that she opened it to us.
Our next destination, was Fazenda Rio Negro, owned and operated by Conservation International as a center for eco-tourism and study of the Pantanal. Sophia told us stories of the gracious large house when it was her uncle’s place and the families who gathered for several days dancing until dawn. A rare glimpse of a passing culture of family, friends, horses and sport.
On leaving Fazenda Rio Negro, we visited Lineo, Sophia’s uncle, whose table of pastries, savories, cheese and lemonade was a welcome break in our dusty ride. We continued on to the Fazenda of Belkiss, Sophia’s aunt, which retained the style and architecture of the original structures of the prior century. The contrast between the homes we visited was intriguing, the warmth pervasive and the laughter contagious.
Transferring from the rustic charm of Bea’s Pantanal to the elegance of Fazenda Caeté in the rain forest northeast of Sao Paulo was to step into the 19th Century. Heather & Marcio Magano showed us to our stately bedrooms, some with delicately painted murals. Our late supper set the pattern of formal lunches and late dinners, as is their custom. The next morning, Marcio guided us on quarter horses through remains of the endangered Atlantic rain forest, visiting small settlements, remote houses and a stunning chapel. In the late afternoon we had time for reading, swimming and endless chatter in the midst of this warm family.
Christine had carefully built the sequence of our experiences saving the most refined for last: incredible horses in a grand setting. Marcelo and Sophia have restored Haras Maripa to its original grandeur. We were awed by the sweeping verandas, tended lawns, and the jewel of a chapel. Yet throughout there was a warm familiar touch. We marveled at the ease with which Sophia managed the smallest of details.
The Mangalarga Machador is originally a cross between the Portuguese Lusitano and the Criollo horse. Marcelo started breeding them over 20 years ago and has been a force in establishing the breed. He demonstrated his success by showing us successive classes from yearlings to three year olds, moving in a ring at command. We then mounted and set off on a wonderful hack across the hills into the dusk. Ridden best with a deep firm seat, these horses move as if on a cloud. It is hard to think of a comparable ride. The next morning, following an unending buffet of breakfast delicacies, we road out for four hours, ending at the local tack shop where some bought the wonderful saddles we had been using.
We have to thank Sophia, Marcelo, Bea, Belkiss, the Maganos and particularly Christine for an exceptional glimpse of their culture and their horses. Our only regret was not being present when Brazil won the world cup. To celebrate this victory with these friends would have been a night to remember.
Richard Strother (Middleburg, Virginia) August 2002.
The Pantanal, still a well-kept secret, stretches over 42,000 square miles along the upper reaches of the Paraguay River, a few degrees north of the Tropic of Capricorn. A unique environment with a contracting annual flood cycle, it is home to one of the highest concentrations of wildlife in the Western Hemisphere. The terrain is open and veldt-like making it perfect for animal and bird watching. June is the most agreeable time of year to visit the Pantanal when the temperatures are cooler and the humidity and mosquito population at their lowest.
The ride takes place in the Rio Negro area, a part of the Southern Pantanal that has retained its original pristine characteristics thanks to strict environmental protection laws. Closely monitored conservation parameters allow the wildlife to cohabit with the cattle ranchers who own most of the land and have been working the savannas for over a hundred years. The beautiful white humpbacked zebu cattle, called nelore, is a breed that thrives here. Our mounts are the sturdy pantaneiros: criollo horses that have adapted to the environment over generations by acquiring a larger lung capacity enabling them to walk very fast through water (their hooves are impervious to the water). To increase their stamina, they have been cross-bread with quarter horses. Trained to work the cattle, they are extremely comfortable to ride, sure-footed, generous and courageous. We will spend 5 nights/6 days in the Pantanal riding from fazenda to fazenda (ranch) staying at three fazendas in diverse areas of this vast eco-system.
A Colonial Estate – The next two days (3 nights) of the trip are spent in colonial splendor, at fazenda “Caete”, a beautifully restored 19th Century privately owned estate situated halfway between Sao Paulo and Rio. Here the scenery is punctuated with hills, forests and, in parts, tropical vegetation -- the last vestiges of the Atlantic rain forest. We will relax in another idyllic environment, enjoy great cuisine and socialize with our charming hosts. Riding is obviously on the program with the owner who will saddle up his Quarter horses and show us his state-of-the-art property, where he breeds Santa Gertrudis cattle. For those who prefer a change of pace, his wife Heather has some attractive alternative suggestions.
“Haras Maripa” in Jaguariuna (one hour’s drive north of Sao Paulo) is where are bred some wonderful Mangalarga Marchador horses renown for their unique and extremely comfortable gaite. This is “Versailles” for horses! We will be treated to a presentation of these beautiful animals -- six-month old foals, yearlings, brood-mares, stallions -- followed by a ride through this magnificent estate, dinner and overnight.
The Logistics
Saturday, June 4
Meet in Sao Paulo – O/N Hotel Fasano *****L
Sunday, June 5 until Friday, June
10 (6 nights)
Fly to Campo Grande and continuation into the Pantanal
by private charter to Fazenda Santa Sophia, where we will stay
three nights. The following two nights will be spent at Fazenda Rio
Negro and the final night at Fazenda Fazendhina. Most of
our time will be spent on horseback interspersed with boating activities,
fishing…(6 nights).
Saturday, June 11 until Monday, June 13 (3 nights)
After a morning ride at Fazendhina followed by brunch, return to Campo
Grande via charter flight to connect with scheduled flight to Sao Paulo*.
Road transfer to Fazenda Caete (1h30) where we will spend the
next 2 days (3 nights).
Tuesday, June 14
After breakfast, road transfer (2h00) to “Haras Maripa”
in Jaguariuna, arriving in time for lunch. In the afternoon presentation
of the Mangalarga Marchador followed by a ride on these unique
horses. Dinner & O/N.
Wednesday, June 15
Morning ride, late lunch & transfer to Sao Paulo for your evening
flight home or to another destination….
End of Services
* IMPORTANT: Specific domestic flights within Brazil are required to coincide with the group air charter transfers into and out of the Pantanal. Schedules to be finalized by Christine.
It is possible to do only the Panatanal portion of this ride.
For details about this ride, please call or e-mail Christine@adventuresonhorseback.com
Horses:
A variety of locally bred horses between 14,2hh / 16hh, that are responsive, well mannered and trained to work the cattle.
Pantanal: Criollo/quarter horse cross-breeds
Fazenda Caete: Quarter horses
Jaguariuna: Mangalarga Marchadors, a gaited horse unique to Brazil.
Tack:
Pantanal & Jaguariuna: Western type saddles without a horn (called the Australian saddle)
Fazenda Caete: Western saddles and some English
Experience: It is important to have a reasonable amount of previous riding experience over varied terrain and to control a horse in any given circumstance. No beginners.
Hours of riding: From 3 to 6 hours in the saddle a day.
Pace: Depending on the location, the Pantanal, Fazenda Caete or Haras Maripa in Jaguariuna the pace varies from slow (brisk walk) to moderate (trot, canter).
Weight limit: 200 lbs / 85 Kg.
COST:
Full ride, $3,880 (Pantanal portion only, $3,000): per person in twin
accommodation for 8 riders.
(If fewer than 6 riders, price will be adjusted accordingly)
Single supplement, if not prepared to share.
Includes: All meals (except
in Sao Paulo), drinks, twin bedded accommodation (one night in the Pantanal
bathroom facilities have to be shared), horses and all activities, air
charter transfers in/out of the Pantanal from/to Campo Grande and all
ground transfers. All luggage transfers are done by our own private plane
always on stand-by for the whole time in the Pantanal. Most of the accommodation
on this trip is in privately owned fazendas.
Excludes: International and scheduled domestic airfares
(*specific flights Sao Paulo/Campo Grande/Sao Paulo will be coordinated
and purchased by Christine, cost can vary & will be determined closer
to the date – to give an idea the 2004 rate was $290,)
travel insurance (mandatory), all local and international airport departure
taxes, laundry, telephone calls, tips and items of a personal nature.
Christine Chauvin (Ltd.)
430 East 56th Street
New York, NY 10022
Tel: 212 421-0671
Fax: 212 935-0559
